You can use a hand-held circular saw or a jigsaw for cutting. Always wear hearing protection and safety glasses when working with the saw.
To get a precise cut, you need a guide rail for your saw. To do this, measure the distance between the saw blade and the outer edge of the saw and mark this distance next to the cutting line drawn on the rear wall. Attach a board to this mark with two screw clamps. Now set the required cutting depth on your circular saw and cut your rear wall along the guide rail you just installed.
So that the decorative side of the back wall is not damaged when sawing, you have to cut from the back when using a circular saw. Because where the teeth of the saw emerge from the material again, there is a risk that the material will fray.
Then you can take care of the finishing strips on your kitchen rear wall. Use a miter box and hacksaw to shorten them accordingly. Insert the bar into the pre-made groove on your back wall. This bar ensures a small distance to the worktop and thus protects the back wall from moisture. Now hold the kitchen splashback in place and make sure it fits.
Fitting the kitchen rear wall – an alternative to the tiled mirror
To protect your wall behind your kitchen counter from unsightly splashes of fat and another soiling, you can protect it with a kitchen rear wall. In many kitchens, a tile mirror serves as a splash guard for this purpose. Instead of the tiled mirror, you can also mount a continuous kitchen rear wall in order to achieve a modern, seamless look.
Kitchen back walls are available in various designs and designs so that you can choose, for example, between glass, wood, marble, or granite optics, in order to match the back wall ideally to your room, the kitchen unit, and the worktop. In this way, a kitchen rear wall also offers you the opportunity to create a visual change in your kitchen without having to undertake extensive renovation work. Instead of laboriously tiling the wall, you cut the plate to fit the back wall and fix it with assembly adhesive.
You can also attach your new splash guard to tiles – so you don’t have to remove the old tiling before installing the new back wall. It is important that you use a suitable adhesive so that the plate adheres firmly to the tiles.
At the beginning of your project, you remove the covers of the sockets – if they are in the area of the future kitchen rear wall. Disconnect the affected circuit so that it cannot be switched on again by removing the relevant fuse or switching off the correct automatic circuit breaker. A suitable voltage tester must then be used to check whether the circuit is really de-energized. Only then can work continuously.
Set the covers aside and use a tape measure or folding rule. It is best to make a sketch of your wall and its dimensions so that you have an exact plan later on how you should proceed when cutting the back wall of the kitchen.
Now you measure the distances to your extractor hood and to the kitchen cupboards. You should also think about the length of your back wall later and make a note of this length. If you have a corner kitchen, you need a second back wall. You can also measure the length for this later when you have installed the first one. Now measure and note down the positions of the sockets on the wall so that you know later where to drill.
Place your plate for the kitchen rear wall on a cutting mat and mark the appropriate length with a folding rule and a square. In this way you have a precise marking for the next step, which you can use as a guide when cutting.
You don’t have to mark the holes for the sockets in this step. You only draw in the dimensions when the length of the back wall has been cut.
Now you turn to the recesses for the sockets. Look at your drawing and use a carpenter’s square to mark the exact places on your back wall.
You can easily saw out the cutouts with the hole saw. Saw from the front, as the cut edges could fray when the saw exits.
So that your kitchen rear wall does not have any unclean cut edges, you use edge strips that are coated with a special hot-melt adhesive. Press the open edge and iron briefly to activate the glue. Let the edge cool for about three minutes and cut off the excess with a pair of scissors or a chisel.
Work here as precisely as possible for a good overall result. Use a sanding block and fine sandpaper to smooth the edges.
Thoroughly clean the kitchen back wall with glass cleaner and clean cloths before you start gluing. Then open the cartridge of the assembly adhesive with a knife, put the tip on, and stretch the adhesive in the cartridge gun.
Apply the glue to the back wall evenly. Push in the back wall and press it down firmly. You can use the grouting board to help you do this.
If you have a corner kitchen, follow the same steps as you just did for your second rear wall: Measure the length of your plate, determine the position, height, and center of your sockets and write everything down in your sketch. Then mark the dimensions on your back wall and cut them to size using the circular saw and guide rail. Once you have attached the edge band, you can clean the plate and apply the glue.
Now you attach aluminum strips to your rear wall to enhance it visually. To do this, cut the L-profiles with the miter box and a hacksaw. When the strips are the right length, you fill them with assembly glue and carefully press them into place.
After assembly, clean your kitchen with a hand brush. When everything is clean, you can joint the transitions from the worktop to the kitchen back wall with silicone. Use a matching color silicone and trace the joint between the kitchen back wall and the worktop. You should also work with silicone in the corner where two back walls meet. Apply a silicone smoothing agent to make the silicone easier to peel off with the putty knife.
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